Friday, November 20, 2009

Jagganaut


I've put a little wooden statue of the tribal verion on shiva (Jagganaut), pretty much a southpark figure with big eyes, in front of me to give me some inspiration to write.

Fort cochin on the we(s)t-coast was very much a fishing town known for it''s chinese fishingnets, but it was not very special, especially knowing it was pissing down with rain. We stayed at a lovely homestay with a typical midclass-family who gave me a rosery as a safe travel present.

So we decided to escape the 2nd monsoon and head for the east-coast. A night train to Mamallapuram. After seeing Hampi with its 2860 temples is was OK to see. The amazing Krishna's Butterball (huge rock) that has been balancing there for the last 1500 years was impressive, even the Emporer couldn't move it with 200 elephants.











In 2004, Mamallapuram was hit by the tsunami and many people were affected. Consequently there are a number of orphanages in town. Interested as we were I asked one of the locals which one to visit and I quote: "I am not sure, a lot of them are fake, kids from neighbouring villages go there for the week and go home to mom and dad in the weekend, many of them are a scam to get money from the tourists."










Well, that's out of the question then...



The monsoon had cought up with us again and so we fled again, also strangly feeling the pressure of time although we've still got nearly 2.5 months left. We took the train even further north to Puri. Our train was leaving from Chennai (Madrass) at 8 AM, so alarm at 6 AM, quick shower and off we went. Undortunately the train had a minor delay of 12 hours in Chennai. Piss-stinking city with no real tourist appeal. We rented a room for the afternoon and thoroughly enjoyed an afternoon sleep. 24 hours in the train were fantastic, we discovered 2nd class AC where you get food, pillow, sheets and airfreshner. Some of the views you get are mind-blowing. We arrived at our station 36 hours after our last shower but we still had to get a cab to Puri, 2 hrs. Again, the rain had followed us and it was raining tropical drops the size of marbles. I was in desperate need of a pee, a poo, a shower and some food but the windscreen wipers of the cab broke. Our driver fixed it the indian style; with a piece of chewing gum and some wire and off we went again. Lots of toeters and bellen, holes in the road, cows on the street, bicycles and irresponible overtaking in 5th gear to save on fuel.





Finally we arrive in Z hotel and guess whet?! I HAD A HOT SHOWER, the first in a month and a half...!


Puri is a town where beer is illegal, hash is legal and all the waiters have a funny smile on their faces. Their gods look like southpark figures and they cut the grass by pulling it out by hand.

We've rented a bike for a few days (very expensive, IRP 500, Euro 7,-) and today drove around, through the national parks to the impressive Sun tempel in Konark.

I say goodnight to you all with an illegal beer in my hand, fireworks and loud hindi music on the background (wedding next door).

Namaste,
From Incredible India,
Dunc and Ell

Monday, November 9, 2009

In sickness and in health.

India...... an often sick male"s perspective.


What a special part of our little planet this is. Full of everything you could want or wish for and more, much much more. Full of fantastic people places, food,drinks religion, creatures great, small and mostly terrifying and bloody hot.


A quick word on places: Diversity is the word... we just spent 48 on a train and came from a Steven Spielberg model of India full of Elephants, Madus, Nadus, Hindus and a witch, to Bangalore. Bangalore the cleanest city in India... so they say. Really dirty place full of Macdonalds and 2 stroke fumes. Nice to catch up with one of our Indian friends though. Then onto Kerela. Very collonial. I have taken to walking with an umbrella just to relive the old days, particularly for afternoon Tiffin.








A quick word on food: Generally perfect but an element of Russian roulette involved! Second night on train, 2nd class non A/C. Your author became very ill indeed. Contimplated jumping off the train just to take his mind off the situation downstairs but managed not to make too much off a mess, upset too many people and survive the night. Great experience I would,nt wish on the enemies of my worst enemies.



A quick word on religion: Alot of it in India. Madus, Nadus, Hindus, Islam, Ashram, Judaism, Tauists, Mauists, Buda and Jesus. Should be an interesting choice for Christmas! Just as an example I,m sitting in a Kashmiry owned internet cafe in a christian town, wich is also comunist...but we won,t go into that, surrounded by Hindus and the occastional Islamic call to prayer on the loud speakers!

In conclusion: These are the days that should happen to everyone.... but come with an open mind, a smile, lots of tolerance, patience, plenty of toilet paper and of course never travel with a white towel!


Lots of love from incredible India,

Duncan and Ellen